Review: O Cosmedics O-Biotics B3 Plus

I love serums, because they are highly active and potent, which suits me just fine! I also love cosmoceutical brands, because they tend to be no-fuss, straight to the point and are cutting edge when it comes to the science part of it all. There’s quite a few cosmoceutical brands out there now and O Cosmedics was a new one for me. I decided to give them a go when I saw that they had a serum containing a whopping 12% niacinamide! I had never seen this kind of concentration before, making them quite unique. Back in the day, I used NIA24 products (another cosmoceutical brand, which utilises niacinamide as their core active ingredient) but it was just to difficult to get here in Aus, so I eventually gave them up (they also didn’t have these kind of concentrations in their products). O Cosmedics on the other hand, is an Australian owned and made, and so it is much easier to find and order.

So why is everyone mad about niacinamide (vitamin B3)? Let me tell you! I’m sorry to sound like a broken record (for some of you) as I go on about niacinamide quite a bit… but in case you’re new, here it is 🙂 Niacinamide is an antioxidant, but it works differently to say vitamin C or green tea. Niacinamide helps the skin to repair UV-induced DNA damage and helps strengthen the top layer of the skin (stratum corneum) by aiding in the production of ceramides and lipids. This is important, because if the top layer of your skin is damaged or not in-tact, it can lead to transepidermal water loss (this results in dehydrated skin and skin which may become hyper sensitive). For this reason, dehydrated skin will make acne and sensitive skin worse, because the top layer of the skin cannot protect deeper layers, sending skin in a frenzy (aka emergency mode, often call hyper sensitivity). This isn’t where it stops working either! Niacinamide also helps reduce inflammation, and if you suffer from sensitive skin or acne, it’s probably, then you probably experience your skin becoming red and inflamed very often. So not only does niacinamide help prevent inflammation, by making sure the stratum corneum is intact and strong, but it also helps to inhibit parts of your skin’s immune system (it inhibits neutrophil chemotaxis, which are responsible for the redness and swelling, see Futurederm for more info) and combats inflammation once it’s happened. Very, very handy.

Not only that, niacinamide also helps prevent the skin from yellowing, which happens in mature skins the most. This is a form of glycation, which effects proteins (proteins and sugars cross-link and turn yellow-brown in colour). Mature skin also benefit from niacinamide’s ability to stimulate protein production (and collagen is a protein!). So not only does niacinamide help skin stay hydrated (by preventing transepidermal water loss) but it also helps the skin to stay firm and lessen the look of wrinkles. Niacinamide also prevents melanin production, so it’s great for combating hyper-pigmentation (again, if you suffer from acne, you probably also deal with discolouration caused by long-term spots). There’s lots that we don’t know about how and why niacinamide works the way it does, but it’s one of those ingredients that strengthens skin and makes it look better, no matter what issue you are dealing with.

Now that we know about niacinamide and how bloody fantastic it is – what else does the serum promise to do?

Boosts the skin’s immune system treats hyperpigmentation acne rosacea and is a vital source of cell energy optimising cellular communication and reinforcing skins barrier functions. A perfect treatment for acne hyperpigmentation and rosacea. All skins looking to improve their immune function induce skin health and radiance even out skin tone improve skin texture and protection will be addicted to this serum. Boosts skin’s immunity! 

Peptides are also utilised in the formula, to help with absorption and collagen production. I couldn’t find a lot of info on Stay C-50, Trylagen and B-White. These aren’t ingredients per se, but must be patented formulas. They sound brightening and it makes sense that together with niacinamide, they could help combat melanin production further (synergistically). The serum itself is a little bit of the thicker side, as in, it is runny, but not like water. It’s slightly gel-like. It also doesn’t have scent per se and there’s no fragrance listed in the ingredient list, which is great (especially for sensitive skins!). Once applied to clean skin, the serum dries down almost and it feels like you have this light ‘film’ all over. It isn’t uncomfortable and I’ve even forgotten once or twice (cough cough) to put moisturiser over the top, which suggests that your skin really does feel comfortable afterwards and it’s barrier function ramps up. Weirdly, nor the box or site mention whether it should be used morning or night, so I could see it being used at either time or both. I preferred in the evenings – over the top of  either my Futurederm retinol serum or my BHA/AHA serum. Because niacinamide works so well at soothing skin and preventing inflammation, it’s the perfect pairing for retinoids or acids.

Now to the ‘results’. Did it lighten the few pigmentation spots that I had? No. But I’m not surprised. I don’t struggle per se with pigmentation, because I use a potent vitamin C+E serum in the mornings along with sunscreen (prevention!) – however, the one or two spots I had, I treated with IPL a little while ago and the IPL actually brought them to the surface more, instead of fading them (shakes fist) not ideal... My skin looked much better overall after the IPL, but it brings up damage to the surface of the skin, so again, not totally surprising. I didn’t expect the serum to fade these deep pigmentation spots (I plan to get rid of them once I have the time to visit a dermo clinic) though that would have been nice. The serum did keep my skin tone and complexion looking clear and healthy though (it’s like it ‘extended’ the effects of the IPL sessions for me – I had that post treatment clarity and glow). I do also think, that I had reduced redness and inflammation generally thanks the the B3 Plus. I do get spots and flare ups from time to time, so this was a noticeable change for me. I have quite good skin generally, so I knew it wouldn’t change the world for me, but I did feel like I needed that ‘boost’ as I was tired and for the most part, the serum delivered on it’s promise. I won’t be buying another bottle right away, but perhaps after the long harsh summer here in Aus, I will take it up again.

So who would benefit from the serum most of all? In a nutshell:

1. Acne prone skin

2. Rosacea, sensitive and hyper-sensitive skin

3. Pigmentation prone skin

4. Tired skin, which has become sluggish and dry

Now, while I mentioned above that it is much easier for me to get a hold of – that is because it is an Australian brand. I ordered my serum online from an authorised stockist for $119 (for 30ml). Now, the authorised stockist which is linked to O Cosmedics website, only ships within Australia, so if you are interested, it may be a good idea to shoot them an email. O Cosmedics is also a salon brand, so you may be able to ask a local stockist to help you out with this. I will also mention that the serum has lasted me a good 3-4 months and I have used it pretty much every evening. Despite it’s thicker consistency, it works out to be quite economical.

As O Cosmedics is a relatively new brand for me still, do let me know if you have heard of them or possibly, even tried some of their products! Have you also succumb to layering serums like I have??? Let me know in the comments below 🙂

Until next time beauties,

Beauty Bee~

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