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Review: Aspect Extreme C 20 Serum 🍊🍋

Another day, another vitamin C serum 😝🍊🍊🍊 Who can help it, when they are so good for your skin?! I know I can’t – so I am always on the search for the best! Today’s vitamin C serum comes from Australian cosmeceutical brand, Aspect. I first discovered the brand through my sister, who saw their ‘sister brand’ Aspect Dr at skin care clinics (the ones that do laser treatments etc.) and selected dermatologists. She loved some of their products, so when the brand made their debut at Adore Beauty – one of my favourite online beauty retailers – I wanted to give them a go naturally. Aspect Dr wasn’t available online for a long time (it is now, but it isn’t widely available) so I hoped that Aspect would still make some knock out products, focusing on active ingredients. Luckily I wasn’t wrong! 😊

The Aspect™ range of cosmeceuticals has been expertly engineered with the latest cutting edge optically pure actives from medical science and nature to protect, nurture, revitalise, and cosmetically restructure your most precious asset. Whether it’s the look of imperfections that’s marring your appearance or the lines of time that announce your age, Aspect™ promises to deliver the youthful glowing skin and complexion that you so desire in no time at all.Aspect™ cosmeceutical products deliver an abundance of good-for-your-skin ingredients and are never tested on animals. We look forward to sharing this remarkably different view of skincare with you through this extraordinary range.

I look for vitamin C serums that are concentrated, so that they brighten skin to their fullest capacity and protect it from future pigmentation. Generally I go for vitamin C serums that contain L-ascorbic acid in concentrations of 15% or more. Why? There’s so many studies confirming that this form of vitamin C does a good job at brightening skin tone, promoting collagen synthesis and protecting skin from free radicals. When you apply it topically, your skin doesn’t need to transform it into another form or substance within the skin for it to be effective. It’s effective as it is. It’s also water soluble.

Another nifty thing to know is that L-ascorbic acid stays present in the skin for 2-3 days after application. How cool is that?! The concentration needs to be at least 10% in order to ‘induce’ such an effect. My ‘gold standard’ in vitamin C serums is the Futurederm Vitamin CE Caffeic Silk Serum 16+2 (16% ascorbic acid and 2% vitamin E). The formula is SO brilliant, innovation and a pleasure to use. I reviewed it waaaay back in 2014 when it originally came in a glass dropper bottle (check out that short post here) but also discussed the new packaging of the serum in a post on Acids (a very nifty post if I can say so myself… see here). When I found it difficult to get a hold of the Futurederm serum, I also used the SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic serum which contains 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% vitamin E. It’s kinda like the ‘original vitamin C+E serum’ that started it all (and it’s patented as a result). I think I’ve used about 5 Futurederm Vitamin CE Caffeic Silk Serum 16+2 in my lifetime (so far) and maybe 3 SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic serums 😄 That’s a lot! 🍊🍋

So why all this talk of L-ascorbic acid? Because it used to be the only type of vitamin C I would look for in a ‘day’ serum ☀️ In the last few years though, other forms of vitamin C have started to rise up! Namely because L-Ascorbic Acid easily turns ‘bad’ as it’s notoriously unstable. So what about the Aspect Extreme C 20 serum? It doesn’t contain L-ascorbic Acid, it contains instead Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. A few months ago I thought to myself – what the hell is that?!? 😂 But soon discovered that I love it! 🥰

Aspect Extreme C 20 is the ultimate anti-aging serum. This antioxidant facial serum helps reduce fine lines whilst firming and brightening skin. With its unique breakthrough combination of Amino Peptides, stable Vitamin C, cellular antioxidants, corrective botanicals, and skin-energising extracts, this powerful facial serum can transform any beauty skin care regimen.A lightweight and fast-absorbing formula, this facial serum rebuilds the appearance of uneven and dulling skin texture to visibly firm the facial contours and fill in deep lines and wrinkles. Extreme C 20 leaves skin with a healthy glow and smooth feel.Key benefits of Aspect Extreme C 20;
  1. High-performance Vitamin C facial serum.

  2. Hydrates, soothes, and calms skin.

  3. Firms skin at a cellular level to reduce signs of aging.

  4. Provides additional antioxidant protection.

  5. Suitable for all skin types, including sun-damaged and sensitive skinThis serum is also boosted with Amino Peptides, cellular antioxidants, corrective botanicals, and skin energising extracts. Syn-Ake, known as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, is a key ingredient in Extreme C 20. Syn-Ake helps rebuild skin at cellular level to fill in fine lines and wrinkles.A non-irritating oil-soluble form of Vitamin C – pH neutral.How to use Aspect Extreme C 20;

  6. Thoroughly cleanse skin and pat dry.

  7. Smooth a pea-sized amount over the face and neck.

  8. Avoid the delicate eye contour.

  9. Use in the morning.

  10. Can be used in the evening as long as no Retinol products are being used.

  11. Follow with face cream. KEY INGREDIENTS Water, Glycerin, Panthenol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Pullulan, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Tetrasodium EDTA, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit Peel) Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Metabisulfite, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Alcohol Denat., Arctium Minus Root Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Galium Aparine Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract, Wasabia Japonica Root Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an oil soluble form of vitamin C. Is it an oily ‘feeling’ serum? Well it doesn’t feel like it! Texture wise the serum feels very similar to the Dermalogioca Bio-Lumin C serum (which contains Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate as it’s active vitamin C). It’s light and very emollient, so it  spreads across the skin very easily and absorbs almost instantly. It leaves skin feel plump (hydrated) and smooth, without even a touch of oily residue. The serum feels above all, light. I love this because I can add other skincare on top of it, without it feeling like everything will just drip down my face as if I was melting (or sweating abnormally haha!). A lot of this is probably due to the high amount of glycerin the formula contains (it’s number two in the ingredient list!). As a humectant, it will help rehydrate skin.

But going back to the sciencey part of this post, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a really special form of vitamin C. Why? It has been shown in peer-reviewed studies to penetrate both the epidermis (the uppermost layer of skin) and dermis (the deepest layer of skin). It still needs to be converted to L-ascorbic acid in the skin in order to be effective, so the one downside to this form of vitamin C is that it probably loses some of it’s potency during this process. So a 20% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate might have the same strength as a 15% L-ascorbic acid product (this is according to Nicki from Futurederm who I trust!). 15% L-ascorbic acid isn’t shabby at all (as discussed above) so this I don’t mind per se. What I don’t like however, is that Aspect don’t tell you how much vitamin C the Extreme C 20 serum contains. Yes, they include the number ’20’ in the serums name, so I really, really hope that it contains 20% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. If it doesn’t, I’d feel seriously ripped off because they make that inference. I asked them how much vitamin C is in the serum but they wouldn’t tell me lol 🤨🤨 I struggle to understand why a company wouldn’t tell customers how of it’s star active ingredient is in the serum. Is it because it gets converted into L-ascorbic acid in the skin and loses some of its potency throughout the process and therefore 20% of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate isn’t active in and of itself? That’s my best guess and that then would be fair IMO. But who knows. Another reason to suggest that the serum could contain 20% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is because thankfully it is ingredient number 4 in the ingredient list. I do find that my pigmentation lightens over time when using this serum in the mornings. That is probably the main reason why I bought a third bottle of this serum! That’s enough said I think 😜 After my last holiday to Europe, I noticed I had a few extra pigmentation spots (nooooo!) and so I quickly bought this vitamin C serum and steadily, my pigmentation is fading. It’s taking patience and time, but it is happening!

The serum has a very light yellow colour but this is the colour of the serum when the product is first ‘opened’ and new. I haven’t found it to change over time. 

I love that the serum is housed in a pump bottle. This means the integrity of the serum formula will stay protected because it is airless and hidden away from the sun. The pump is nifty because you can ‘hide’ it with just a twist of the cap (it sinks into the bottle) so it makes travelling with the serum safe and secure (nothing can then accidentally press down on the pump and dispense product). It has a slightly light and fruity scent, but nothing obnoxious. It’s smell is probably thanks to the grapefruit peel oil in the formula. I don’t feel any tingling when applied to my skin and Aspect do recommend it even for sensitive skins which is great (thank you soothing plant extracts!).

Another interesting twist to this product review, is that Aspects sister brand Aspect Dr Active C Serum has the exact same ingredient list as the Extreme C 20 serum. So that’s good (I think) because the price of the serums are exactly the same. Confusing, yes lol The Extreme C 20 serum costs $129.80 from Adore Beauty. It contains your standard 30ml of product (standard for a serum). Zelens do a serum containing tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate as their hero ingredient. Their serum however, is marketed as ‘treatment drops’ and looks like a traditional facial oil (in a glass dropper bottle). It is also 130 pounds` (that’s about $240 Australian dollars at the moment 😳😰) so significantly more expensive than the Aspect Extreme C 20 serum lol… They do tell you that the serum contains 20% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate though. I’m still happy to stick to the Aspect offering as I like the lightweight texture over an oil and my inkling is that it contains 20% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate 😉 Oh and I’m glad that it doesn’t come in a glass dropper bottle, but whatever floats your boat!

I would easily go with this vitamin C serum over the Dermalogica  Bio-Lumin C serum. I see more results when using it and the packaging is more practical. As Aspect is an Australian owned company, that’s also another bonus in my books 😊

So tell me Beauties – have you heard of this type of vitamin C before? Would you give it a go??? Let me know in the comments below!

Catch ya next time,

Beauty Bee~

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